

1. Obligatory picture at approach to Bealach na Ba.
2. Here be dragons.
3. Blue Skye ahead, Rhum centre frame, Eigg to the left 36 miles away…
How many cafes did I visit today? 3.
How many times did my ears pop riding up the Bealach na Ba? 7.
Did it start raining before or after I put up the tent? After.
So about as perfect a day as possible. If you like that kind of thing. Also a day of two halves.
The first half: Up early, first one into the Tarvie transport caff for carb fest of brown food and as the nice local lassie cooking said “any dry day is a Good day”. Then west and southwest, seemingly downhill all the way with a helpful tailwind. The scent of bluebells in the shadowed woods, bigger hills rising ahead in the sunshine, a swoop into Lochcarron, a pull over to Kishorn and a landing at the Bealach cafe. Too posh for motorbikes and great coffee.
Second half: Up the climb, slow going on a loaded bike. Much more traffic than I remember too, mostly sensible and using the passing places. The odd rental motor home or road warrior trying to squeeze by (impossible) and squash me up against the safety barriers. Up and up. The hairpins felt easier than the slog before somehow. Still dry still good.
Stayed too long at the pass staring at the crystal view and explaining to various people why I was riding a bike up there (no other cyclists around today) – then down into the freezer and a freezing wind. By the time I rolled into The Walled Garden I was a shaking and a shivering. (If you go, make a point of visiting it. It’s a… walled garden. And good coffee).
Then up the coast north with its incessant and unnecessary hills to a bivi spot, a bit of rain and a sunset view. Perfect! 



